Chang An Northwestern Chinese Cuisine

3.5 star rating
2 reviews

Category: Chinese  [Edit]

240 Alton Towers Circle
Unit 110

Scarborough, ON M1V 4P1
(416) 916-2634
Hours:

Mon-Fri 4 pm - 11 pm

Sat-Sun 11:30 am - 11 pm

Accepts Credit Cards:
Yes
Price Range:
$$
Attire:
Casual
Good for Groups:
Yes
Good for Kids:
Yes
Delivery:
No
Take Away:
Yes
Waiter Service:
Yes
Outdoor Seating:
No
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2 reviews in English

  • Review from Janelle W.

    • 1078 friends
    • 841 reviews

    Detroit, MI

    USA
    4.0 star rating
    7/18/2010 5 photos

    My favorite homophone pair is 'wigger' and 'Uyghur'.

    Whereas the former spelling describes an excessively-tattooed white guy in saggy jeans and an NBA jersey who spits out Eminem lyrics like bad toothpaste, the latter spelling describes a reticent Northwestern Chinese Muslim.  Fortunately for customers of Chang An, it is the latter definition who's behind the food.

    Chang An's Uyghur menu [it's actually Xi'an, not Uyghur, but Xi'an doesn't have a nice homophone partner] reads like a history book of the Great Silk Road.  It marries Chinese, Arabic, Indian, and Javanese flavors and ingredients, all on one glossy tri-fold.  Since Northwestern Chinese cuisine is harder to find in the Western world than a tuk-tuk for hire, Chang An is as much a gift to the GTA as the Silk Road has been to gastronomy.

    The general opinion of Northwestern Chinese food--most likely perpetuated by the ubiquitously-bastardized "Mongolian barbecue" concept--is that the cuisine is, comprehensively, meat on a stick.  And while Chang An will quickly disprove that notion, their Xi'an baked beef (#107, $5) is nevertheless an obligatory order.  The tender, smoky squiggles of cow are heavily spiced with cumin, through which Persian and Arabian influence is evident.

    The Eastern Chinese influence comes in the form of chewy, glutinous handmade noodles (#202, $5).  These noodles are hand-kneaded and hand-cut, every day, with the precise, dexterous traditionality of the world's shrinking population of great noodle-makers.  The wide, doughy noodles are firm, yet tender on the tongue, served atop chilli paste, and garnished with green onion.  Noodle nirvana, in a little stoneware bowl.

    India steps onto the menu with the Xi'an pork pancake (#105, $3), a salty, savory handful of pulled pork sandwiched between two naan-like flatbreads.  Because this appetizer is so popular, a coffee table-sized griddle is covered with these flatbreads, which are continuously being flipped and turned like a carnival ride.  Nothing can prepare you for the ecstasy of biting in to the gently-browned, crisp-edged flatbreads, then reaching the succulent threads of pork.  Mind-numbingly sublime.

    And lastly, the Javanese influence.  Fragrant spicy hair tail (#304, $6).  A slender flute-like fish, deep fried to a golden crisp, then drizzled with a spicy soy, ginger, and chilli sauce.

    The Chang An experience is about sharing.  Dishes are shared at a table--four or five dishes per two diners is a good start.  The furthest reaches of the Silk Road's web shared their flavors with the Northwestern Chinese.  And words share pronunciations, like the PEACE you'll feel when you taste a PIECE of the Silk Road.

    *** NOTE:  Location doesn't map.  I don't think "Alton Towers Circle" is an official street name.  It's in a strip mall on the west side of McCowan, about 0.5 km south of Steeles.

  • Review from alfred i.

    • 12 friends
    • 41 reviews

    North York, ON

    3.0 star rating
    8/5/2011

    Authentic small Chinese family restaurant. Good food, good service, overall great place.

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